Pothos (Epipremnum aureum): care, watering, pruning and propagation

To care for a pothos, place it in bright but indirect light, water only when the potting mix is nearly dry, keep it between 18 and 30 °C, and repot it in spring when the roots run out of room.

Pothos, whose botanical name is Epipremnum aureum, is the most forgiving indoor vine we know: it tolerates a moderately lit room and missed waterings, and can be propagated from cuttings in just a few weeks. Every numerical guideline comes from a named source, from the RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) to university extension services.

If you have a specific cultivar, its dedicated profile complements this guide, such as the one for Epipremnum N'Joy or Epipremnum Neon.

🌿 Pothos, scindapsus, or philodendron: which plant are we talking about?

The pothos sold at garden centers is Epipremnum aureum, not a scindapsus or a philodendron. According to Plants of the World Online, Kew's database, the accepted name is Epipremnum aureum (Linden & André) G.S.Bunting; Pothos aureus, Scindapsus aureus, and Rhaphidophora aurea are merely synonyms.

The common name pothos, also sometimes spelled potos or pothis, comes from this former name, Pothos aureus. The RHS, for its part, lists golden pothos under the name Epipremnum pinnatum 'Aureum': botanists do not all agree on its rank, but its care remains the same.

To distinguish it from the heart-leaf philodendron, NC State Extension gives two criteria: no clearly visible sheath (stipule) on new growth, and a grooved petiole. The true scindapsus, with its silver foliage, has its own Scindapsus profile.

Benefit	What this means for you
Very tolerant of low light	NC State Extension notes that it survives for a long time in low light: it adapts to less brightly lit rooms
Two growth habits to choose from	Trailing from a shelf or hanging planter, or climbing a support, where its leaves grow larger
No need for humid air	The RHS specifies that it does not require high humidity, unlike many tropical plants
Easy to propagate	A stem cut below a node roots in a simple glass of water in 3 to 4 weeks (Wisconsin)

🔬 Epipremnum aureum: the botanical name for pothos

Epipremnum aureum is the scientific name for pothos: caring for an Epipremnum plant, whether you call it golden pothos or pothos, follows the advice in this guide.

This name has changed frequently: here is its history according to the Kew database cited above.

Name	Status according to Kew (POWO)
Epipremnum aureum (Linden & André) G.S.Bunting	Accepted name, published in 1964
Pothos aureus Linden & André	First name, published in 1880; it gave rise to the common name pothos
Scindapsus aureus (Linden & André) Engl.	Synonym, 1908: explains the “scindapsus” label still seen at garden centers
Epipremnum mooreense Nadeaud	Synonym, 1899, described from Mo'orea

Its origin is still debated. Kew indicates a native range limited to the Society Islands (Mo'orea) and a liana from the tropical moist biome. The profile from the International Aroid Society is more cautious: according to the society, the plant is unknown in the wild, its presumed origin in the Solomon Islands has never been confirmed, and botanist Nicolson proposed in 1978 that it be treated as a cultivar of Epipremnum pinnatum, the rank adopted by the RHS cited above.

🌴 Pothos in the wild: a giant vine

In the wild in the tropics, the Wisconsin extension describes a vine that climbs trees using aerial roots, with stems reaching 65 feet long (about 20 m) and leaves that grow larger as it climbs toward the canopy: mature leaves are pinnate, perforated along the midrib, and up to 3 feet (about 90 cm) long.

Having escaped gardens, it has naturalized in some warm regions: the UF/IFAS Extension in Charlotte County, Florida lists it as a Category II invasive plant according to the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council and describes vines about 50 feet (15 m) long, with leaves about 3 feet by 2 feet (90 cm by 60 cm).

In a pot, it retains its small, juvenile, entire leaves (Wisconsin). Cultivars sold in France, such as Global Green pothos or N'Joy pothos, are marketed as selections of Epipremnum aureum; see also how to care for N'Joy pothos.

🔎 Pothos at a glance

Here is the verified profile of pothos. The accepted name, synonyms, and native range come from Kew. Growth habit, size, and toxicity come from NC State Extension (North Carolina State University), which describes a climbing perennial with glossy, heart-shaped leaves that are green or variegated.

In a pot, it retains its juvenile form; on a support and in good light, it can produce large adult leaves.

Criterion	Verified details
🏷️ Botanical name	Epipremnum aureum (Linden & André) G.S.Bunting; synonyms Pothos aureus, Scindapsus aureus
🧬 Family	Araceae
🌳 Type	Evergreen vine that climbs using aerial roots, grown in France as a houseplant
🌍 Origin	Society Islands, Polynesia (Moorea), tropical rainforests (Kew POWO)
🍃 Foliage	Heart-shaped, glossy, solid green or variegated with yellow, cream, or white, depending on the cultivar
🌸 Flowering	Typical Araceae spathe, very rare indoors: it is grown for its foliage
📏 Size	Stems up to 40 feet (about 12 m), according to NC State; much shorter in a pot, where it is pruned
⚠️ Toxicity	Insoluble calcium oxalates: toxic to dogs and cats (ASPCA)

📋 Quick care sheet

Essential growing guidelines, all in one place.

Parameter	Guideline
Light	Bright and indirect, east- or west-facing window; at least 150 foot-candles (about 1,600 lux) to maintain its color (UF/IFAS)
Watering	When the potting mix is nearly dry, checked by touch; much less in winter
Potting mix	Well-draining peat-free potting mix, loosened with gravel and bark (RHS); pot with drainage holes
Humidity	Normal indoor air is sufficient (RHS); tray of damp pebbles near a radiator
Temperature	18 to 30 °C (RHS); cold damage after a few hours at around 1 to 4 °C, or 33 to 40 °F (UF/IFAS)
Repotting	In spring, every 2 to 3 years, when roots emerge from the drainage holes (RHS)
Fertilizer	Houseplant fertilizer once a month from April to October (RHS)
Toxicity	All parts are toxic: keep out of reach of pets and children; wear gloves when pruning
Difficulty	Very easy: mainly sensitive to overwatering and cold

📍 Where to place pothos: light, temperature, and outdoors

Place your pothos near a bright window, out of direct sunlight. The RHS recommends bright, indirect light, typically near an east- or west-facing window, and warns that direct sun can scorch the leaves.

The growing guides from the University of Florida (UF/IFAS) give specific thresholds: pothos tolerates about 50 foot-candles (around 540 lux), but needs 150 or more (about 1,600 lux) to maintain the color and size of its leaves.

For warmth, the RHS recommends keeping it between 18 and 30 °C, away from cold drafts and radiators.

☀️ Ideal spot: One or two steps from an east- or west-facing window, or behind a sheer curtain in a south-facing window. Highly variegated varieties (Marble Queen, N'Joy) need the brightest spot.

📅 When to move it: In spring, when growth resumes; avoid moving it in midwinter from a warm room to a cold one.

🛏️ Pothos in a bedroom: This is possible if the room is bright (bright, indirect light, 18 to 30 °C according to the RHS). In a dark bedroom, pothos survives for a long time (NC State), but variegated forms lose their color (UF/IFAS); also see our houseplants for dark rooms. If a cat or dog sleeps in the room, hang it out of reach: it is toxic to them (ASPCA).

🏡 Pothos outdoors? Only in summer, in bright shade: UF/IFAS notes that growth and quality decline when nighttime temperatures regularly fall below 65 °F (about 18 °C), and reports brown spots after a few hours at around 1 to 4 °C. Bring it indoors as soon as nights turn cool.

🪴 Repotting pothos: when to do it and which potting mix to choose

Repot your pothos in spring, when the roots are crowded in the pot or emerge from the drainage holes, using a container only slightly larger. The RHS recommends doing this every 2 to 3 years and advises against an oversized pot, which retains water around the roots.

For the potting mix, it recommends a blend of three parts peat-free ericaceous potting mix, one part gravel, and one part medium orchid bark: a well-draining, slightly acidic mix rich in organic matter. In practice, our aroid potting mix follows the same airy approach.

Drainage comes from the potting mix and the hole in the pot, not from a layer of pebbles at the bottom. If you have just bought the plant, first read when to repot a plant after purchase.

Step	What to do
1. Check whether it needs repotting	Roots circling the bottom or emerging from the holes, potting mix drying very quickly: it is time
2. Choose a pot	A pot with drainage holes, only slightly wider than the root ball; do not use a decorative outer pot without drainage
3. Prepare the mix	Peat-free potting mix loosened with gravel and bark, following the RHS recipe
4. Position the plant	Gently tease apart the roots, set the root ball at the same level, and do not bury the stems
5. Water	Water thoroughly, then empty the saucer after a few minutes

columns: 4
columns_mobile: 2

✂️ Pothos care: watering, pruning, and fertilizer

Pothos care comes down to three things: water sparingly, prune for fuller growth, and feed during the growing season. The RHS sums up the watering rule in one sentence: water only when the potting mix is nearly dry, after checking it with your finger.

NC State Extension also advises allowing the potting mix to dry between waterings, and the University of Wisconsin Extension reminds us that root rot is most often caused by overwatering. No fixed watering schedule works for every home.

💧 Watering: Stick a finger into the potting mix: if it still feels cool, wait. If it is almost dry, water until it drains through, then empty the saucer. The RHS recommends rainwater or filtered water rather than tap water.

✂️ Pruning: Using a clean tool, cut overly long stems just above a leaf: according to the RHS, new shoots emerge from the nodes and make the plant bushier. Spring and summer are the best times.

🔹 Rejuvenation: A very bare pothos can be cut back to about 2 inches above the potting mix, says the Wisconsin extension; replant the cut pieces as cuttings in the same pot to fill in the center.

🌱 Fertilizer: Houseplant fertilizer once a month from April to October, according to the RHS; Wisconsin recommends feeding every two months. None in winter.

💧 Leaves and humidity: Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth. Pothos does not require humid air; near a radiator, a tray of damp pebbles is enough, so there is no need to mist.

💧 Watering Epipremnum aureum: step-by-step

Watering Epipremnum aureum follows the same rule as watering any pothos: water when the potting mix calls for it, never on a schedule. The RHS says to wait until the mix is nearly dry, checking it with your finger; the Wisconsin extension says to wait until the surface is dry.

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To care for a pothos, place it in bright but indirect light, water only when the potting mix is nearly dry, keep it between 18 and 30 °C, and repot it in spring when the roots run out of room.

Pothos, whose botanical name is Epipremnum aureum, is the most forgiving indoor vine we know: it tolerates a moderately lit room and missed waterings, and can be propagated from cuttings in just a few weeks. Every numerical guideline comes from a named source, from the RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) to university extension services.

If you have a specific cultivar, its dedicated profile complements this guide, such as the one for Epipremnum N'Joy or Epipremnum Neon.

🌿 Pothos, scindapsus, or philodendron: which plant are we talking about?

The pothos sold at garden centers is Epipremnum aureum, not a scindapsus or a philodendron. According to Plants of the World Online, Kew's database, the accepted name is Epipremnum aureum (Linden & André) G.S.Bunting; Pothos aureus, Scindapsus aureus, and Rhaphidophora aurea are merely synonyms.

The common name pothos, also sometimes spelled potos or pothis, comes from this former name, Pothos aureus. The RHS, for its part, lists golden pothos under the name Epipremnum pinnatum 'Aureum': botanists do not all agree on its rank, but its care remains the same.

To distinguish it from the heart-leaf philodendron, NC State Extension gives two criteria: no clearly visible sheath (stipule) on new growth, and a grooved petiole. The true scindapsus, with its silver foliage, has its own Scindapsus profile.

Step	What to do
1. Test	Stick a finger into the potting mix: if it still feels cool, wait
2. Water thoroughly	Pour slowly over the entire surface until water drains through the holes
3. Empty the saucer	After a few minutes, discard any remaining water: a plant left sitting in water for too long will develop root rot (RHS)
4. Choose your water	Use room-temperature rainwater or filtered water rather than tap water, especially if it is hard (RHS)

Benefit	What this means for you
Very tolerant of low light	NC State Extension notes that it survives for a long time in low light: it adapts to rooms with less natural light
Two growth habits to choose from	Trailing from a shelf or hanging planter, or climbing a support, where its leaves grow larger
No need for humid air	The RHS specifies that it does not require high humidity, unlike many tropical plants
Easy to propagate	A stem cut below a node roots in a simple glass of water in 3 to 4 weeks (Wisconsin)

🔬 Epipremnum aureum: the botanical name for pothos

Epipremnum aureum is the scientific name for pothos: caring for an Epipremnum plant, whether you call it golden pothos or pothos, follows the advice in this guide.

This name has changed frequently: here is its history according to the Kew database cited above.

Name	Status according to Kew (POWO)
Epipremnum aureum (Linden & André) G.S.Bunting	Accepted name, published in 1964
Pothos aureus Linden & André	First name, published in 1880; it gave rise to the common name pothos
Scindapsus aureus (Linden & André) Engl.	Synonym, 1908: explains the “scindapsus” label still seen at garden centers
Epipremnum mooreense Nadeaud	Synonym, 1899, described from Mo'orea

Its origin is still debated. Kew indicates a native range limited to the Society Islands (Mo'orea) and a liana from the tropical moist biome. The profile from the International Aroid Society is more cautious: according to the society, the plant is unknown in the wild, its presumed origin in the Solomon Islands has never been confirmed, and botanist Nicolson proposed in 1978 that it be treated as a cultivar of Epipremnum pinnatum, the rank adopted by the RHS cited above.

🌴 Pothos in the wild: a giant vine

In the wild in the tropics, the Wisconsin extension describes a vine that climbs trees using aerial roots, with stems reaching 65 feet long (about 20 m) and leaves that grow larger as it climbs toward the canopy: mature leaves are pinnate, perforated along the midrib, and up to 3 feet (about 90 cm) long.

Having escaped gardens, it has naturalized in some warm regions: the UF/IFAS Extension in Charlotte County, Florida lists it as a Category II invasive plant according to the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council and describes vines about 50 feet (15 m) long, with leaves about 3 feet by 2 feet (90 cm by 60 cm).

In a pot, it retains its small, juvenile, entire leaves (Wisconsin). Cultivars sold in France, such as Global Green pothos or N'Joy pothos, are marketed as selections of Epipremnum aureum; see also how to care for N'Joy pothos.

🔎 Pothos at a glance

Here is the verified profile of pothos. The accepted name, synonyms, and native range come from Kew. Growth habit, size, and toxicity come from NC State Extension (North Carolina State University), which describes a climbing perennial with glossy, heart-shaped leaves that are green or variegated.

In a pot, it retains its juvenile form; on a support and in good light, it can produce large adult leaves.

Criterion	Verified details
🏷️ Botanical name	Epipremnum aureum (Linden & André) G.S.Bunting; synonyms Pothos aureus, Scindapsus aureus
🧬 Family	Araceae
🌳 Type	Evergreen vine that climbs using aerial roots, grown in France as a houseplant
🌍 Origin	Society Islands, Polynesia (Moorea), tropical rainforests (Kew POWO)
🍃 Foliage	Heart-shaped, glossy, solid green or variegated with yellow, cream, or white, depending on the cultivar
🌸 Flowering	Typical Araceae spathe, very rare indoors: it is grown for its foliage
📏 Size	Stems up to 40 feet, about 12 m, according to NC State; much shorter in a pot, where it is pruned
⚠️ Toxicity	Insoluble calcium oxalates: toxic to dogs and cats (ASPCA)

📋 Quick care sheet

Essential growing guidelines, all in one place.

Parameter	Guideline
Light	Bright and indirect, east- or west-facing window; at least 150 foot-candles (about 1,600 lux) to maintain its color (UF/IFAS)
Watering	When the potting mix is nearly dry, checked by touch; much less in winter
Potting mix	Well-draining peat-free potting mix, loosened with gravel and bark (RHS); pot with drainage holes
Humidity	Normal indoor air is sufficient (RHS); tray of damp pebbles near a radiator
Temperature	18 to 30 °C (RHS); cold damage after a few hours at around 1 to 4 °C, or 33 to 40 °F (UF/IFAS)
Repotting	In spring, every 2 to 3 years, when roots emerge from the drainage holes (RHS)
Fertilizer	Houseplant fertilizer once a month from April to October (RHS)
Toxicity	All parts are toxic: keep out of reach of pets and children; wear gloves when pruning
Difficulty	Very easy: mainly sensitive to overwatering and cold

📍 Where to place pothos: light, temperature, and outdoors

Place your pothos near a bright window, out of direct sunlight. The RHS recommends bright, indirect light, typically near an east- or west-facing window, and warns that direct sun can scorch the leaves.

The growing guides from the University of Florida (UF/IFAS) give specific thresholds: pothos tolerates about 50 foot-candles (around 540 lux), but needs 150 or more (about 1,600 lux) to maintain the color and size of its leaves.

For warmth, the RHS recommends keeping it between 18 and 30 °C, away from cold drafts and radiators.

☀️ Ideal spot: One or two steps from an east- or west-facing window, or behind a sheer curtain in a south-facing window. Highly variegated varieties (Marble Queen, N'Joy) need the brightest spot.

📅 When to move it: In spring, when growth resumes; avoid moving it in midwinter from a warm room to a cold one.

🛏️ Pothos in a bedroom: This is possible if the room is bright (bright, indirect light, 18 to 30 °C according to the RHS). In a dark bedroom, pothos survives for a long time (NC State), but variegated forms lose their color (UF/IFAS); also see our houseplants for dark rooms. If a cat or dog sleeps in the room, hang it out of reach: it is toxic to them (ASPCA).

🏡 Pothos outdoors? Only in summer, in bright shade: UF/IFAS notes that growth and quality decline when nighttime temperatures regularly fall below 65 °F (about 18 °C), and reports brown spots after a few hours at around 1 to 4 °C. Bring it indoors as soon as nights turn cool.

🪴 Repotting pothos: when to do it and which potting mix to choose

Repot your pothos in spring, when the roots are crowded in the pot or emerge from the drainage holes, using a container only slightly larger. The RHS recommends doing this every 2 to 3 years and advises against an oversized pot, which retains water around the roots.

For the potting mix, it recommends a blend of three parts peat-free ericaceous potting mix, one part gravel, and one part medium orchid bark: a well-draining, slightly acidic mix rich in organic matter. In practice, our aroid potting mix follows the same airy approach.

Drainage comes from the potting mix and the hole in the pot, not from a layer of pebbles at the bottom. If you have just bought the plant, first read when to repot a plant after purchase.

Step	What to do
1. Check whether it needs repotting	Roots circling the bottom or emerging from the holes, potting mix drying very quickly: it is time
2. Choose a pot	A pot with drainage holes, only slightly wider than the root ball; do not use a decorative outer pot without drainage
3. Prepare the mix	Peat-free potting mix loosened with gravel and bark, following the RHS recipe
4. Position the plant	Gently tease apart the roots, set the root ball at the same level, and do not bury the stems
5. Water	Water thoroughly, then empty the saucer after a few minutes

columns: 4
columns_mobile: 2

✂️ Pothos care: watering, pruning, and fertilizer

Pothos care comes down to three things: water sparingly, prune for fuller growth, and feed during the growing season. The RHS sums up the watering rule in one sentence: water only when the potting mix is nearly dry, after checking it with your finger.

NC State Extension also advises allowing the potting mix to dry between waterings, and the University of Wisconsin Extension reminds us that root rot is most often caused by overwatering. No fixed watering schedule works for every home.

💧 Watering: Stick a finger into the potting mix: if it still feels cool, wait. If it is almost dry, water until it drains through, then empty the saucer. The RHS recommends rainwater or filtered water rather than tap water.

✂️ Pruning: Using a clean tool, cut overly long stems just above a leaf: according to the RHS, new shoots emerge from the nodes and make the plant bushier. Spring and summer are the best times.

🔹 Rejuvenation: A very bare pothos can be cut back to about 2 inches above the potting mix, says the Wisconsin extension; replant the cut pieces as cuttings in the same pot to fill in the center.

🌱 Fertilizer: Houseplant fertilizer once a month from April to October, according to the RHS; Wisconsin recommends feeding every two months. None in winter.

💧 Leaves and humidity: Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth. Pothos does not require humid air; near a radiator, a tray of damp pebbles is enough, so there is no need to mist.

💧 Watering Epipremnum aureum: step-by-step

Watering Epipremnum aureum follows the same rule as watering any pothos: water when the potting mix calls for it, never on a schedule. The RHS says to wait until the mix is nearly dry, checking it with your finger; the Wisconsin extension says to wait until the surface is dry.

Step	What to do
1. Test	Stick a finger into the potting mix: if it still feels cool, wait
2. Water thoroughly	Pour slowly over the entire surface until water drains through the holes
3. Empty the saucer	After a few minutes, discard any remaining water: a plant left sitting in water for too long will develop root rot (RHS)
4. Choose your water	Use room-temperature rainwater or filtered water rather than tap water, especially if it is hard (RHS)
5. Follow the seasons	In winter, growth slows and the potting mix dries out more slowly: watering naturally becomes less frequent

🥀 Limp leaves: A pothos with limp, drooping leaves is often underwatered when the potting mix is dry and hard. If the mix is soggy, the opposite is true: too much water damages the roots.

🍂 Brown or black leaves: Browning, then blackening edges on damp potting mix point to overwatering and root rot (NC State); too much fertilizer can also blacken the edges due to salt buildup (Wisconsin).

If in doubt, a plant hygrometer measures the moisture in the root ball; our article on watering with rainwater explains how to collect it.

🍂 The pothos through the seasons

In spring, growth picks up again: this is the time to repot, resume fertilizing, prune stems that stretched out over winter, and add a moss pole. In summer, it grows quickly: keep an eye on watering and direct sunlight. In fall, water less often, stop fertilizing in late October as the RHS recommends, and take a few backup cuttings.

In winter, the plant slows down: water much less, give it the brightest spot available, and keep it away from radiators and cold windows. Should you increase humidity? Read Misting: useful or not?.

📅 Seasonal care calendar

Season	Key task
🌸 Spring	Repot if needed, resume fertilizing in April, prune and add a support pole
☀️ Summer	Water when the potting mix is nearly dry, fertilize monthly, avoid direct sunlight
🍂 Fall	Water less often, stop fertilizing in October, take backup cuttings
❄️ Winter	Brightest spot, minimum 18 °C recommended, reduce watering, no fertilizer

🌱 Propagating pothos in water or soil

Pothos is one of the easiest plants to propagate from cuttings. The RHS describes the process: take a section of stem, cut just below a node (the point where a leaf attaches), then place the cutting in a glass of water in bright light until roots appear before potting it up.

UF/IFAS production guides use very short cuttings, 2.5 to 4 cm long with one node: buds start growing in 2 to 3 weeks, followed by rooting in 3 to 4 weeks. The Wisconsin Extension gives the same 3-to-4-week timeframe, in water or vermiculite, and recommends planting several cuttings together for a fuller pot.

To choose between water and potting mix, see our guide to propagating in water or potting mix.

🐛 Pothos problems: yellow leaves, causes and solutions

Yellow leaves on a pothos most often indicate a watering problem: Wisconsin Extension cites overwatering, underwatering, or too much fertilizer (salt buildup), which blackens the edges before turning the leaf yellow, and notes that older leaves also turn yellow and fall off naturally.

NC State Extension adds that overwatering causes root rot and black margins, low light leads to loss of variegation, and lists mealybugs and scale insects as pests.

For growers, UF/IFAS describes root rot (Phytophthora) that spreads through irrigation water and splashes, causing leaves to turn dark brown or black.

Symptom	Likely cause	Solution
Yellow leaves falling off, damp potting mix	💧 Overwatering, roots deprived of oxygen	Let the potting mix dry out, empty the saucer, check the drainage hole; repot in a well-draining mix if the roots are brown and mushy
Yellow, limp leaves, dry and hard potting mix	💧 Prolonged underwatering	Water thoroughly until it drains out, then resume checking the mix with your finger
One or two old yellow leaves near the base	⚠️ Normal aging (Wisconsin)	Simply remove them: no action needed if new growth is healthy
Black margins, black stems at the base	🍄 Root rot due to overwatering (NC State, UF/IFAS)	Cut off affected parts, take cuttings from healthy stems, and start again in fresh potting mix
Variegation fading, small leaves	☀️ Insufficient light (UF/IFAS)	Move it closer to a window; prune stems that have reverted to solid green
Cottony clusters or small shells	🐛 Mealybugs or scale insects	Remove them with cotton wool soaked in alcohol, isolate the plant, and check leaf axils

🌸 Our pothos varieties

All these forms are grown like standard pothos; descriptions are from NC State Extension where cited. A general rule from UF/IFAS: the more variegated a cultivar is, the more light it needs to retain its colors. If you're unsure, our Mystery Pothos Box brings together several forms to discover. For more, here are the varieties we grow.

Variety	What makes it special
Epipremnum aureum 'N'Joy'	Small, delicate leaves, green with cream variegation (NC State); see our N'Joy care guide to maintain this contrast
Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen'	Green leaves and stems marbled with white (NC State); highly variegated, it needs a bright spot (UF/IFAS), as explained in our Marble Queen guide
Epipremnum aureum 'Neon'	Bright yellow leaves (NC State), adding color to a dark shelf; tips in our Neon care guide
Epipremnum aureum 'Global Green'	A cultivar sold under this name, to be grown in bright indirect light like the standard form; detailed care notes are in our Global Green guide
Epipremnum aureum 'Manjula'	A variegated cultivar sold under this name; like all variegated forms, it needs the brightest spot (UF/IFAS), as do 'Snow Leopard' and Epipremnum pinnatum 'Marble Green'
Epipremnum pinnatum 'Cebu Blue'	A related species: narrow blue-green leaves, trailing stems reaching 5 to 6 feet (about 1.5 to 1.8 m) (NC State)

🎨 Which plants pair well with pothos, and how can you train it to climb?

Pothos shares the filtered light and moderate watering needs of other indoor vines.

For a cascading shelf display, pair it with Philodendron Brasil or Scindapsus; compare other vines in our guide to trailing houseplants, and find them in our hanging plants collection.

To train it to climb, the RHS recommends a pole covered in moss or coconut fiber, kept moist so the aerial roots can attach to it; according to NC State Extension, a well-lit plant trained up a support will eventually produce large, mature leaves.

Our guide to support poles for climbing plants explains how to set one up, and a clear support pole stays discreet.

⚠️ Is pothos toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) classifies Golden Pothos, Epipremnum aureum, as toxic to dogs and cats due to its insoluble calcium oxalates.

Reported signs include oral irritation, intense burning and irritation of the mouth, tongue, and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. NC State Extension classifies its toxicity as moderate, affecting all parts of the plant, and notes a risk of contact dermatitis; the RHS recommends wearing gloves.

If ingested, call your veterinarian. For a room shared with a pet, see our lists of non-toxic plants for cats and non-toxic plants for dogs.

✅ Our expert tips for success

Success with pothos mostly comes down to not loving it too much with the watering can: bright, indirect light, potting mix that is nearly dry before each watering, temperatures of 18 to 30 °C, and a pot with drainage holes. Prune it in spring, repot every 2 to 3 years, and keep a backup cutting.

Choose a variety to suit your light: the more variegated the foliage, the brighter the spot needs to be, as UF/IFAS reminds us; Marble Queen and N'Joy should therefore be placed near a window.