Amaryllis (Hippeastrum): planting the bulb, care and reblooming

To grow an amaryllis successfully, plant the bulb between October and January in a pot only slightly wider than the bulb, leaving about two-thirds of it above the soil. Place it in a bright spot at around 21°C and water sparingly until leaves appear: flowers arrive about 6 to 8 weeks later.

These guidelines come from the RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) Hippeastrum growing guide. The amaryllis sold commercially, sometimes spelled amarylis, amarylys or amarillys in French, is in fact botanically named Hippeastrum.

This guide covers the full life cycle of the amaryllis bulb: choosing it, planting it in a pot, caring for it while it flowers in winter, then storing it and getting it to flower again the following year. To compare it with other festive plants, see our Christmas plants guide.

🌿 Amaryllis or Hippeastrum: which plant are you really buying?

The bulb sold as amaryllis for Christmas belongs to the genus Hippeastrum. According to Plants of the World Online (POWO) from the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, this genus has 116 accepted species, all native to tropical Central and South America, in the Amaryllidaceae family.

True Amaryllis is a different genus: Amaryllis belladonna, described by Linnaeus in 1753, a bulbous geophyte native to South Africa's Cape Provinces, according to POWO.

The University of Wisconsin Extension makes the same distinction: indoor amaryllis is a South American Hippeastrum, while true amaryllis, or belladonna lily, comes from South Africa; both belong to the Amaryllidaceae family. So this entire guide is about Hippeastrum, the bulb that flowers in a pot indoors in winter.

🔎 Amaryllis at a glance

Here is the verified profile of amaryllis. The genus, number of species and origin come from POWO; the flower-stalk dimensions are from Wisconsin Extension; and the bulb and toxicity information come from Clemson University Extension and the ASPCA. The genus Hippeastrum Herb. was published in 1821, according to POWO.

Commercial amaryllis are sold under cultivar names: the sources consulted classify them at the Hippeastrum genus level, without assigning them to a specific wild species.

📋 Quick care guide

Essential growing guidelines, all in one place.

📍 Where and when to plant amaryllis: season, light and when to bring the pot indoors

Plant your amaryllis between October and January, the period recommended by the RHS, and allow 6 to 8 weeks from planting to flowering. For Christmas flowers, plant from late October to early November. Clemson Extension, meanwhile, reports flowering 4 to 8 weeks after planting in early or mid-November.

To encourage growth, place the pot in a bright spot at around 21°C, then, as soon as the flowers open, move it to a cooler spot between 15 and 18°C to help them last longer, advises the RHS. The University of Maryland Extension confirms that flowering lasts less time at temperatures above about 18°C (65°F).

Turn the pot regularly so the flower stalk does not lean toward the window.

📅 When to plant: October to January (RHS); for Christmas, plant 6 to 8 weeks before your desired date

☀️ Indoor amaryllis: Bright spot to start, at around 21°C; cooler (15 to 18°C) while flowering (RHS)

🌳 Amaryllis in an outdoor pot: Summer only, after the last frost, in partial shade at first and then in more sun; when to bring amaryllis indoors: before the first frost (Maryland, Wisconsin)

🪴 Planting an amaryllis bulb in a pot: step-by-step planting and first watering

Start with the bulb: Wisconsin Extension recommends choosing the largest one you can find, since larger bulbs produce more flowers, and selecting one that is firm and dry, with no mold or damage. Clemson notes that a bulb with a circumference of 30 to 32 cm generally produces two flower stalks with 3 to 4 flowers each, while the largest bulbs can produce up to three stalks.

The pot should be only slightly wider than the bulb: the RHS says “slightly larger than the bulb,” Maryland recommends about 2.5 cm wider than its widest point, and Clemson says 2.5 to 5 cm, always with drainage holes.

Sources differ on planting depth, but their recommendations point in the same direction: leave two-thirds of the bulb above the soil, according to the RHS, or one-third to one-half, according to Clemson, which notes that leaving the bulb neck exposed reduces the risk of red blotch.

For the potting mix, the RHS recommends peat-free John Innes No. 2-type potting mix or peat-free multipurpose potting mix; a multipurpose substrate can serve as a base. For other bulbs, our guide to when and how to plant bulbs covers the seasons.

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✂️ Growing and caring for indoor amaryllis: watering, staking and flowers

Winter care for amaryllis is simple: water sparingly at first, increase watering as it grows, give it light and stake it to support the large flowers. The RHS recommends watering sparingly until new leaves develop, then watering regularly, without letting the potting mix dry out or allowing water to collect in the saucer.

Maryland offers a hands-on guide: let the top 1 cm or so (1/2 inch) of potting mix dry between waterings, and increase watering once growth reaches 5 to 7 cm. Wisconsin Extension warns that potting mix that stays wet can cause the bulb to rot. Each flower lasts about two weeks, sometimes longer, according to Maryland.

💧 Watering potted amaryllis: Very little until leaves appear, then water when the top 1 cm of potting mix is dry (Maryland); never leave water standing in the saucer (RHS)

🪢 Staking: Recommended for cultivars with large flowers (RHS); place the stake away from the bulb and use a soft tie

☀️ Light: Turn the pot regularly to help the flower stalk grow straight (RHS)

🔹 Cooler temperatures while flowering: 15 to 18°C as soon as the flowers open to help them last longer (RHS)

🔹 Spent flowers: Remove them along with the swollen part beneath them to prevent seed formation (Wisconsin), while always keeping the leaves

🍂 Caring for potted amaryllis after flowering: dormancy and reblooming

To keep an amaryllis and get it to flower again, everything comes down to the months after flowering: the bulb must replenish its reserves through its leaves. The RHS recommends cutting the spent flower stalk back to the base, keeping the leaves, applying a balanced liquid fertilizer every week and watering regularly. In summer, the pot can be moved outdoors, out of the hot sun.

At the end of September, the RHS suggests two methods: keep the plant in a cool spot, around 13°C, for 8 to 10 weeks, reducing watering and stopping fertilizer, then cut the leaves back to 10 cm above the bulb neck and replace the top 2.5 to 5 cm of potting mix; or stop watering, allow the foliage to dry and keep the pot in a cool place, with no need for light, for one to two months.

Wisconsin Extension also recommends 8 to 10 weeks of dormancy in a cool, dark place, ideally at around 7 to 13°C (45 to 55°F), without watering; flowering follows 4 to 6 weeks after growth resumes. Maryland recommends 6 to 8 weeks of dormancy at around 4 to 10°C. Afterward, bring the pot into the light and resume watering.

Our guide to what to do with bulbs after flowering applies the same principles to garden bulbs.

📅 Seasonal care calendar

🌱 Amaryllis in water, on pebbles or in a waxed bulb

Amaryllis can also flower without soil because the bulb contains its own reserves. For a bulb vase, Clemson Extension recommends filling it with water to about 2.5 cm below the vase's midpoint, so the water does not touch the bulb. For growing on pebbles, it recommends a layer about 7.5 cm deep, with the top third of the bulb visible.

Clemson explains that a bulb forced in water will not flower again in water: to keep it, repot it in potting mix after flowering.

Waxed bulbs, coated in decorative wax, are also available as gifts. The Iowa State University Extension explains that they need neither water nor soil, only a bright spot out of direct sunlight; flower stalks appear in 4 to 6 weeks and flowering lasts up to three weeks.

It adds that these bulbs are designed for single use and are not intended to be kept from one year to the next, and that the wax should be removed before composting them.

To force other bulbs in a vase, such as hyacinths, follow our guide to forcing bulbs for Christmas blooms, which gives step-by-step instructions.

🐛 Problems: amaryllis producing only leaves, red blotch and rot

The most common complaint is an amaryllis that produces only leaves the following winter. The RHS lists three possible causes: allowing the bulb to dry out too soon, too much shade, or too little water the previous summer—in other words, insufficient reserves.

Other problems are mostly caused by moisture: Clemson links bulb and root rot to soil that is too wet, and describes red blotch as a fungal disease that causes reddish-brown spots on the bulb, leaves or flower stalk.

The fungus responsible is Stagonospora curtisii, now classified as Didymella curtisii according to the RHS fact sheet on this Amaryllidaceae fungus, which lists Hippeastrum among its hosts. Wisconsin Extension notes that the disease rarely kills the plant but can weaken the flower stalk.

For a soft bulb, see our guide to root rot.

🌿 Our picks for further reading

To extend the season for bulbs and Christmas plants, here are our guides and a few plants to discover, each with its own dedicated resource.

🎨 Which Christmas plants pair well with amaryllis?

For holiday displays, amaryllis pairs beautifully with a low-growing plant whose foliage hides the base of the flower stalk. Indoors, it makes a lovely companion to the poinsettia, which also needs bright light and protection from drafts, and reblooms according to a different cycle, one based on long nights.

Several bulbs planted together in a wide bowl create a striking display, as long as each bulb’s neck remains above the soil.

In the garden, bulbs to plant in fall take over in spring, and our Christmas plant guide compares all the seasonal plants, from Hippeastrum to the Christmas rose.

⚠️ Is amaryllis toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes. The ASPCA’s Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) fact sheet classifies Hippeastrum as toxic to dogs, cats, and horses due to lycorine and other alkaloids.

Reported signs include vomiting, drooling, and diarrhea; ingesting large quantities can cause convulsions, a drop in blood pressure, tremors, and heart rhythm disorders. The ASPCA notes that the bulb is the most toxic part. Clemson Extension adds that all parts of amaryllis are toxic to humans and animals if ingested in large quantities.

Keep the pot and resting bulbs out of reach of pets and children, and call your veterinarian if any is ingested. If you have a cat, see our list of plants that are non-toxic to cats.

✅ Our expert tips for success

Remember these four steps for a successful amaryllis. Plant the bulb between October and January in a pot only slightly wider than the bulb, with the neck clearly above the soil, and expect flowers in 6–8 weeks. Water very sparingly at first, then water when the soil feels dry to the touch, without leaving water in the saucer, and stake tall flower stalks. After flowering, cut back the stalk but keep the leaves, and feed and water throughout the summer.

Finally, give it 8–10 weeks of rest in a cool place in the fall: this dormant period is what makes it bloom again the following winter.